El Nido, Palawan, The Philippines

El Nido is a major access point to unlocking the beauty of Palawan’s Bacuit Archipelago, which is known to have some of the most breathtaking beaches in the world. There are remote, uninhabited islands across the entire stretch of northern Palawan, and travelers will have no trouble finding stunning beaches, private coves and untouched lagoons . The town of El Nido has hospitable residents that will cook you hearty meals (either on land or during your boat rides across the islands) and welcome you graciously to their humble town.

El nido private beach

Palawan was my first destination in The Philippines and it set the bar very high for my future trips – the hues of the water against the karst backdrop, the people, the hidden lagoons, and the amazing diving experiences for scuba lovers. I joined a Filipino family of twelve to see Palawan’s Underground River on my way to El Nido, and took a seven-hour ferry ride from El Nido to Coron. It was a blissful meditation experience to converse with a Filipino navy officer on the deck of the ferry while taking in beautiful views.

El Nido Limestone cliff

When to Visit El Nido:

Always check for typhoons, as the country is unfortunately prone to them. For the best experience, I recommended going anytime in June-August, which is off-peak season. You are taking a risk with the weather, but you can island hop without excessive crowds. Even off peak, expect at least seven to ten other tourist boats while island hopping. If you like to go off the beaten track, look up TAO Adventures and sign up for their island hopping tours that range from three to five days. They operate closer to the peak season, and take travelers to private islands.

El Nido View of Helicopter and Matinloc Islands from the boat just before my night dive near Cudlao Island

What you need in El Nido:

Bring cash! El Nido is a small town and credit cards are not accepted everywhere. Bring your bathing suit, hat, sunglasses, sunscreen, mosquito repellant, clothes to keep you cool, and a book. Snorkeling and scuba gear can be rented but the quality is inconsistent. If you have dietary restrictions, keep those on your list of packing priorities. There aren’t too many healthy or eclectic packaged goods available at the tiny shacks here.  Remember to hydrate and do not drink tap water.

El Nido Dusk view of Helicopter and Matinloc Islands

How to get to El Nido:

Your options depend on your time and budget. Direct flights from Manila (MNL) to El Nido (ENI) are few and expensive for SE Asia standards (approx: $250-300). But if you are short on time, take a flight. If you have a relaxed schedule, then you have a few cool options:

1) Take a flight from Manila (MNL) to Puerto Princesa (PPS), a city at the center of Palawan. Not a whole lot to do here, but you can definitely spend a night and have a nice meal in the country’s cleanest city. You can then take a direct eight-hour road trip by minivan or bus all available at the city center or through your accommodation.

2) Travel 50 miles north of Puerto Princesa to one of the New Seven Wonders of the World: the Puerto Princesa Underground River. Explore the Underground River for a few days before you make your way up to El Nido.

3) Travel to El Nido by ferry from Manila. Ferries in The Philippines are quite comfortable (air conditioning, entertainment and food) but the rides are long and often delayed, so this is an option for the traveler with plenty of time.

Best things to see in El Nido:

Island hopping around El Nido is the number one attraction here. Rent a private boat through your hotel or private companies in town. Explore the 7 Commandos Island for snorkeling, the Secret Lagoon, Shimizu Island, Hidden Beach, Secret Beach, Talisay Island, Matinloc Shrine and Helicopter Island. El Nido itself also has some beautiful beaches accessible by foot or tricycle (their version of a tuk-tuk). These are Marimegmeg Beach/Las Cabanas Beach, 7 Commandos Beach (accessible by boat and part of one of the island hopping tours), and Corong Corong Beach. Matinloc Island now has a resort with facilities to ferry you to El Nido and back, about a 15 minute ride. This is a great stay option if you want to avoid crowds. More adventurous travelers can rent kayaks to go from El Nido to Matinloc. Scuba enthusiasts can use the company Palawan Divers to set up a dive. During my night dive, I saw a blue-spotted stingray, an egg cowry, three types of seahorses, and several nudibranchs – all quite rare. Coron is also a very popular dive spot with actual WWII wrecks to explore.

The view from Matinloc Shrine on Matinloc Island
The view from Matinloc Shrine on Matinloc Island

Getting around El Nido:

Transportation is easy, as El Nido is small and you can walk to most places. Additionally, most people speak English here. If you’re staying a bit further away from shore, there are tricycles (small tuk-tuks) everywhere always looking for your business. Also, this tiny town was hit badly by Typhoon Haiyan in 2013, so a lot part of their economy still depends on you. Haggling with the tricycle driver is not needed, as unlike in Manila, they will quote you a fair price and will go out of their way to ensure you’re at the right destination.

El Nido Shuchi karst at Shimizu island
Thanks to Shuchi Vyas, a New York-based travel expert, entrepreneur, and nonprofit consultant. Shuchi spent all of 2015 globetrotting – combining her love of travel with engaging with local communities. She assisted several organizations ranging from a small organic farm in Vang Vieng, Laos, to a large Southeast Asian nonprofit based in Manila. Her favorite experiences include diving with sharks in Malapascua, zip-lining in the northern jungle of Laos, hitchhiking in Sulawesi, and biking through villages near Angkor Wat in Cambodia. Follow her on instagram @shuch_a_wanderer

 

Top 5 Things to Do in Split, Croatia

Along the coastline of Croatia lies Split, the country’s second largest city. Full of character, it is the perfect combination of both history and modernity. Within the old city walls are mazes, small alleys filled with quaint shops, restaurants and bars. An outdoor promenade lined with restaurants faces the sea, where you can get a glimpse of the turquoise water. It is the perfect place to enjoy a lovely lunch on the edge of old town, with a view of the sailboats, cruise ships, and locals walking by.

Split, Croatia

Just like the rest of Croatia, the best time to visit Split would be during tourist season, May- September, when the weather is warm (highs in 80’s, lows in 60’s Fahrenheit). However, to avoid crowds, mid to late April is a good time as well. Split does have its own airport (Airport Code: SPU), with flights coming in from London, Munich, Vienna, Rome and other major European cities. Flying into Zagreb or Dubrovnic and driving along the coast is another option as well. There are various bus tours that stop in Split as part of the itinerary, however we chose a private car. We had a great experience driving from Dubrovnik to Split with Blue Bay Excursions, a local family run company.

Split, Croatia

Here are the top 5 things to do while in Split:

Diocletian’s Palace

The main attraction in Split is Diocletian’s Palace, the Roman Emperor’s residence in which he lived after retirement until he died in 313 AD. Although the most of the palace had been destroyed, remnants lie throughout the old city. You can spend time walking through and looking around, and even stop by a restaurant to break for a drink. There is no entrance ticket for just the palace view, however if you wish to tour the basement halls it is 40 KN adult/20 KN child.

Diocletian's Palace Split Croatia

St. Dominus Cathedral and Bell Tower

This was originally the mausoleum of Diocletian, as it lies within the palace boundaries. To climb up the bell tower it is 25 KN, and to enter the cathedral it is 25 KN. After climbing to the top of the bell tower, you can enjoy a breathtaking view of the whole city of Split and the sea as well.

Marjan Forest Park

This site is said the be the “lungs of the city.” If the weather is nice, take a quick break and hike up to Marjan.  Not only will you get a breath of fresh air but lovely views of the city as well. There are trails running through the forest in which you can choose to hike or you can bike along the seafront (bikes can be rented from the northern entrance for about 15 KN/hour).

Museums

Gallery of Fine Arts: Located very close to the palace, this building was once the city’s first hospital. Here you can see a mix of ancient and modern Croatian art pieces. Entrance tickets are 20 KN adult/10 KN child.

Archaeological Museum: A ten minute walk from the town center, here you can see excavations from the Roman and early Christian periods. Tickets are 20 KN adult/10 KN child.

Ethnographic Museum: Get a glimpse into the old life and culture of Dalmatia.  You can see old photos, costumes and other pieces important to the citizens. Tickets are 15 KN adult/10 KN child.

Restaurants

There is a large selection of restaurants, mostly local Croatian, seafood, Italian and Mediterranean cuisine. There is a variety of small casual mom and pop type places, as well as modern/trendy places.

Recommended restaurants (at the time of this post):

Bokeria- Located in the old town. More on the trendy side, great variety on the menu, and presentation and atmosphere are fantastic. Lovely selection of wine and drinks as well.

Galija- Hidden gem, located inside old town. Well lit outdoor seating covered in Christmas lights.  Pizza was really good, staff was really friendly, and everything is reasonably priced.

Brasserie on 7- Located right on the promenade (Split Riva). We stopped here for a coffee break, lovely hot chocolate!  Very homey feeling, decorated in shades of aqua and sand. Gives you the feeling of being on the ocean.  Their lunch and dinner menu consists of a mix of seafood, burgers, and more.

Split, Croatia

Split, Croatia

Thanks to Anisha, a senior at Syracuse University, for sharing her travel tips on Split, Croatia. Follow her on instagram @_pairofpassports
Thanks to Anisha, a senior at Syracuse University, for sharing her travel tips on Split, Croatia. Follow her on instagram @_pairofpassports

Varkala resort town in Kerala, India

The sleepy town of Varkala is located in the state of Kerala in Southern India.  The town lies on India’s west coast and is about 50 km north of the city of Trivandrum.  The breathtaking cliffs lining the beach here makes for extraordinary sunsets.  The gorgeous beaches are some of the most sought after for surfing enthusiasts from all over the world.  The beach here is cleaner and less crowded in comparison to other beaches along the Arabian Sea coastline.  The resort area has two cliffs, north and south, overlooking the beach areas.  The main beach, called Papanasam, is between these two cliffs.  Folklore believes that this beach has holy waters which will wash away sins.  Another beach, named Black Beach is located further north.  There is a sidewalk along the cliff edge that allows travelers to access the different parts of this small resort town.

varkala, kerala, india cliff beach

 

Additionally, Varkala has lush greenery, coconut and banana farms in excess, beautiful backwaters, fishermen communities, great seafood and a sleepy vibe that the state of Kerala is known for.  Travelers can easily rent a scooter for about $5 a day and drive around the town as well as visit historical temples.  With yoga retreats and Ayurvedic massages galore, Varkala makes for a calming getaway (for all ages) from the maddening shroud that can sometimes be the rest of India.

Varkala, Kerala, India beach

Kerala is an extremely precious part of India with beautiful landscapes and backwaters in abundance. So, it is very important for us to be responsible tourists.  I believe in supporting the manual boats and canoes rather than the bigger houseboats as those are known to be encroaching on the delicate ecosystem.  The disposal of diesel into the water pollutes the marine life and the water that is used by the local fishing and farming communities.

kerala beach, india

BEST TIME OF YEAR TO VISIT KERALA:

The monsoon season runs between May and October, with the heaviest rainfall historically in June, July and August.  I, personally, love watching the thunderstorms over the sea, especially from up top of a cliff, so I don’t mind a visit during monsoon time.  However, for travelers short on time, it is probably best to avoid the rainy season.  Summer, from March to May, can be very humid and very hot.  The winter months from December to February offer warm and dry weather and are the most optimal time to visit.  December can be an expensive month to visit India ( in general) as it tends to be popular amongst tourists.  January is a good fit for those trying to catch dry weather, escape extremes of heat, and avoid expensive markups on hotels and flights.  The high temperature in January is still in the mid 80s (or around 30 degrees Celsius).

WHAT TO WEAR IN KERALA:

It is perfectly alright to wear bikinis/bathing suits/swim trunks while at the beach. However, I would strongly recommend covering up properly if moving away from the beach and/or climbing back up to the cliff area in order to be respectful of the local culture and also avoid uncomfortable stares. Wearing cotton shirts and comfortable trousers/skirts to go into town is a good idea to cover up appropriately while also remaining cool as the temperatures can get pretty high during the day.

HOW TO GET TO VARKALA:

The nearest airport is Trivandrum(TRV) and one can easily catch a taxi to Varkala for about $20. Alternatively, one can also take the train – Kanyakumari Express – to Varkala Sivagiri Station.  If you plan to fly into Kochi (COK), which is another city in the state of Kerala, the train ride south to Varkala is about 4 hours.  I would recommend the train, as the ride provides gorgeous views of the lush landscape.  At the time of this post, non-stop flights to TRV and COK are available from Mumbai, Delhi, and Abu Dhabi.  Cheap flights to India often involve at least one stop from the United States.  Non stop flights from New York and Newark are available to Delhi and Mumbai on Air India and United Airlines, which often save time, but are more expensive.

BEING SAFE IN KERALA:

Although Varkala is one of the chillest and safest towns in the area, it is always a good idea to be cautious.  The town goes to sleep quite early, so use caution if walking around after dark.  In fact, past sunset, there is not much to do in the evening hours.  You can hang out at one of the restaurant bars on the cliff, listen to the waves crash, and watch the fishing boats return home after a long day’s work.

WHAT NOT TO MISS IN KERALA:

Travelers can opt to take a quick day trip to the nearby Ponnumthuruthu Island, also called the Golden Island.  While in the Golden Island you can take a relaxing manual boat rides along the water.  The Golden Island is just 12 km south of Varkala.  Varkala is also famous for the Janardana Swami Temple, a two thousand year old shrine, which is often referred to as Dakshin Kashi (Benares of the South).  The temple is in close proximity to Papanasam beach.  While Varkala is usually visited for the beach and yoga, you may also want to experience the famous Kerala Backwaters.  The three most well known regions of Kerala’s backwaters are Astamudi, Vembanad, and Kannur-Valiyaparambu Backwaters (in districts of Kannur and Kasargod).  The backwaters near Astamudi lake are the closest to Varkala.

Floating through the Kerala backwaters
Floating through Kerala’s backwaters

Thanks to Archana
Thanks to Archana (former engineer, turned filmmaker, turned traveler, photographer, writer and dabbler at large) for sharing her travel recommendations with us!

Switzerland’s Wine Country

Most people don’t realize that Switzerland has beautiful vineyards.  Travelers can take a mild to moderately challenging hike passing (or stumbling, depending on how often you stop for a tasting) through several vineyards located on the shores of Lake Geneva.  The entire Lavaux wine region is a UNESCO world heritage site and stretches 30 kilometers from Lausanne to Montreux.  One of the most scenic hiking trails starts in the small town of Cully (about a 20 minute train ride from Lausanne).  Take the train to the town of Cully and begin your hike here.   Between here and the town of Rivaz (about 5 km from Cully) you will have great views of immaculate terraced vineyards, Lake Geneva, and the French Alps.  If you have more time in this region, stay overnight in Montreux or Lausanne and catch a music festival in the summer (Paléo Festival de Nyon, Montreux Jazz Festival).

Headed to Rivaz

Swiss Vineyard

Vineyards Sign

 

Central Park, New York

Central Park is awesome.  I took my new camera to the Loeb Boathouse on Friday to test it out.  While taking some pics from the iconic Bow Bridge, a couple in a gondola came by.  Just as the guy began to propose, his friends (standing on the bridge beside me) jumped up screaming “Say Yes! Say Yes!”  So much fun to watch!

Say Yes

Yes, it is a little cheesy, but if you are a visitor to NYC or a native, renting a boat in Central Park is something to try at least once.  The gondola rides are on the pricier side – $45 per half hour – so if you are planning to propose, there is no time to be shy.  A more reasonable option is to rent one of the row boats- $15 per hour (cash only!) with a $20 cash deposit.  Each boat holds 4 people and the Loeb Boathouse provides life jackets.  Enter the park in the east 70s and rent a boat from 10 am to 6 pm (weather permitting) from April to November.

The walled city in Cartagena, Colombia

Cartagena, Colombia (named after Cartagena, Spain) is a quick 4.5 hour flight from New York City.   The best part of Cartagena is the colorful colonial

walled portion which was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1984.  You can either walk or ride a bike on top of the walls around the city.  Stop by at Cafe Del Mar to watch the sunset.  Stay in one of the many 6 to 10 room boutique hotels where the architecture has been preserved on the outside but all the comforts of the modern world (wifi!!!) have been added on the inside.  Although it is on the Caribbean Coast of South America, the beaches near the city are a waste of time.  For beautiful beaches, take a day trip out to Rosario Islands (https://vacayhack.com/2015/09/05/pablo-escobar-was-here/).