India – VacayHack

Ladakh, India

June 2, 2016Posted in IndiaTagged Budget, Scenic Drives, Scenic Hikes, Scenic Lakes

Just beyond the hill-stations of Himachal and Srinagar and just before the inhabitable upper Himalayas lies the sparsely populated region of Ladakh, the ‘Land of the High Passes’. A pocket of Tibetan culture carved into Indian borders, Ladakh is an oasis of valleys thriving amongst a harsh Himalayan ranges that slice through the land. Excursions from Leh, the sleepy, monastery-filled capital, are recommended to the Nubra Valley, a major stop in the ancient Silk Road, and Pangong Lake, a massive clear-blue lake that straddles India and China.

Start the morning drive early and rise out of Leh through one of the highest mountain passes in the world, the Khardung-La Pass, which peaks at a staggering 5602 meters (18,379 feet). There’s a cheeky chai station at the top reminding you that you’re on top of the world.

After conquering Khardung-La, your view opens to the sanctuary that is the Nubra Valley. A small pocket of monasteries, homes, and camel farms remain of what once used to be a large trading post between China and India on the Silk Road. In the distance, the Siachen Glacier can be glimpsed where both India and Pakistan maintain forward army posts at inhumane elevations.

Backtrack to Leh and cross the mighty Chang-La pass and be greeted by the colossal, shimmering-blue Lake Pangong: a saline lake that sits at 4350 meters (14,270 ft), covers 604 square kilometers, and is 134km (83 miles) long.

The barren, immense moonscapes of Ladakh have an incredible way of making you feel small.

When to Visit Ladakh:

The tourist season is short, from June to September with peak tourism combining with flower blooms in the valleys in late-July, early-August—a truly remarkable sight. We went in late April and combatted avalanches, blizzards, and sub-zero evening temperatures, which surely instructs you to the power of the region but is not recommended.

What to Wear/What to Bring to Ladakh:

Layers are a must. After a hike to a monastery you want to rip every off, but after sitting in the car passing over 18,000 feet you’re reaching for the earmuffs. We would sleep in multiple sweaters and hibernate in winter coats. Great boots are essential. Gloves, a camera, and a penchant for adventure are all else that you need.

How to get around Ladakh:

Purists would advocate renting a motorcycle and driving the entire long, unpredictable route on Royal Enfield like a Bollywood movie star. However, it’s safer and faster to fly from Delhi to Leh and hire a local driver who will skillfully transport you around the region. Of note, all foreign nationals are required to purchase the Protected Area Permit (600 INR) to enter the Nubra Valley and the Pangong Lake regions. Each town outside of Leh sports a few comfortable and affordable accommodations for you to rest after conquering each successful mountain pass.

What not to miss in Ladakh:

Do not forget to give yourself time to acclimatize! The day we arrived we felt as if someone had wrung us through a clothes-dryer; we spent a full day lying in bed trying not to move a muscle. Drink water aggressively and use Diamox if you have a history of altitude sickness—acute cerebral or pulmonary edema is serious. In lighter advise, ask your driver to take you to the roads overlooking the Indus River as it runs through Ladakh. It’s a humbling experience to see the pure water make it’s way towards the coast and contemplate its role in the creation of a civilization.

Thanks to Nitish, a doctor, traveler, and writer based in New York City for his travel tips on Ladakh!

Amer Fort, Jaipur, India

March 23, 2016Posted in IndiaTagged Forts, Historic Sites, UNESCO World Heritage Site

Just outside the pink city of Jaipur is the old seat of the Rajput Empire in Amer. Here, travelers will find the breathtaking Amer (also called Amber) Fort, which was added to the list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites in 2013. The fort, also called the Amer Palace, is a four level complex, which includes a Diwan-e-Aam(Hall of Public Audience), Diwan-e-Khas(Hall of Private Audience), the Sheesh Mahal(mirrored palace), and the Zanana Dyodi(women’s chambers). Visitors enter through the Ganesh Pol (Gate) or Suraj Pol, for just 100 rupees (just under 2 USD). This magnificent structure overlooks the Maotha Lake, and travelers can ride an elephant up the hill to the main gates of the grand palace.

The Meenas people originally held the Fort. According to legend, in a cowardly act by the Rajput conspirers, the Meenas were massacred while they were performing religious ceremonies during the festival of Diwali. To this day this shameful act is acknowledged with the Rajput men wearing black on Diwali. This is the point in history when the Kachwaha Rajputs took the seat of a new empire in Amer, and eventually moved it 6.8 miles away to Jaipur. But for the 150 years that followed, the small Amer Fort that was started by the Meenas was built upon, and we are left with this stunning souvenir of Rajasthan’s history.

The architecture of the fort incorporates Indian Hindu motifs along with Persian Muslim designs. The story of Jodha and Akbar, which began in Jaipur, has inspired artists throughout history. Jodha, the daughter of a maharaja at the Amer Fort, was married to the Emperor Akbar. It was commonplace for Hindu women to commit johar (suicide by jumping into a fire) when faced with the possibility of marrying or being raped by non-Hindu men. Jodha, faced with the possibility of marrying the Muslim Emperor, did not commit johar, and their union is said to have helped Akbar grow his empire. Akbar allowed Jodha to maintain her Hindu religion and this helped create religious tolerance in his empire. If only our world today could take notes from one of the great leaders of the 16th century.

HOW TO GET TO JAIPUR

Non stop flights to Delhi leave from New York (15 hours), Zurich, Amsterdam, London and several other cities. From Delhi, visitors can hire a car, take a 4 hour train journey or take a domestic flight to Jaipur (Airport Code: JAI). Given that hiring a car is very affordable, the best bet would be to link up with a local travel agent to have a car and a driver to take you around during your time in Jaipur. Your hotel may also be able to arrange this for you.

BEST TIME TO VISIT JAIPUR

I was here in February and it was starting to get warm and desert sun is very hot. Usually this part of India is best visited between November and February. I would spend 2 to 3 days here, as Jaipur and Amer have a lot to offer. Most of the buildings open at 0900 and close at 1630. There are light shows at the Hawa Mahal and Amer Fort in the evenings. The one at the fort is regarded as the better one.

WHAT TO KNOW ABOUT JAIPUR

When in India, it is prudent to dress conservatively, especially because a lot of the places you visit are temples or house temples and shrines. Bringing filtered water, some easy to carry snacks ( trail mix, nuts), sunscreen, a hat to block out the intense sun, and an open mind are a good idea.

BEST TOURIST SITES IN JAIPUR

Jaipur is India’s pink city, and the name does not lie. In 1876 when the Prince of Wales and Queen Victoria were coming to Jaipur, the city painted its walls pink. Pink was the color of hospitality. The color, along with the sentiment of hospitality remain. Jaipur has a plethora of places to visit and explore. Visitors can take in the City Palace, walk across the street to Jantar Mantar, a collection of 19 astronomical instruments (which still work with accuracy), and check out the Hawa Mahal. The Hawa Mahal connected to the ladies zenana in the palace and gave them a vantage point to look out over the city’s happenings from behind 953 famous Jharokhas(windows). Also, make time to take in the vistas from the Nahargarh and Jaigarh Forts, stop to take in the palace in the water Jal Mahal, visit the Birla Mandir to hang out with some monkeys, say a prayer at the Govind Dev Ji Temple, shop in Johari and Babpu bazaar and eat traditional foods. And of course, anytime you are in India, take a break from being a tourist to indulge in a hot cup of chai.

Thanks to Jasmit, a physician living in NYC, for her travel tips on Jaipur!

Varkala resort town in Kerala, India

November 24, 2015Posted in Beaches, IndiaTagged Budget, Romantic, Scenic, Yoga

The sleepy town of Varkala is located in the state of Kerala in Southern India. The town lies on India’s west coast and is about 50 km north of the city of Trivandrum. The breathtaking cliffs lining the beach here makes for extraordinary sunsets. The gorgeous beaches are some of the most sought after for surfing enthusiasts from all over the world. The beach here is cleaner and less crowded in comparison to other beaches along the Arabian Sea coastline. The resort area has two cliffs, north and south, overlooking the beach areas. The main beach, called Papanasam, is between these two cliffs. Folklore believes that this beach has holy waters which will wash away sins. Another beach, named Black Beach is located further north. There is a sidewalk along the cliff edge that allows travelers to access the different parts of this small resort town.

Additionally, Varkala has lush greenery, coconut and banana farms in excess, beautiful backwaters, fishermen communities, great seafood and a sleepy vibe that the state of Kerala is known for. Travelers can easily rent a scooter for about $5 a day and drive around the town as well as visit historical temples. With yoga retreats and Ayurvedic massages galore, Varkala makes for a calming getaway (for all ages) from the maddening shroud that can sometimes be the rest of India.

Kerala is an extremely precious part of India with beautiful landscapes and backwaters in abundance. So, it is very important for us to be responsible tourists. I believe in supporting the manual boats and canoes rather than the bigger houseboats as those are known to be encroaching on the delicate ecosystem. The disposal of diesel into the water pollutes the marine life and the water that is used by the local fishing and farming communities.

BEST TIME OF YEAR TO VISIT KERALA:

The monsoon season runs between May and October, with the heaviest rainfall historically in June, July and August. I, personally, love watching the thunderstorms over the sea, especially from up top of a cliff, so I don’t mind a visit during monsoon time. However, for travelers short on time, it is probably best to avoid the rainy season. Summer, from March to May, can be very humid and very hot. The winter months from December to February offer warm and dry weather and are the most optimal time to visit. December can be an expensive month to visit India ( in general) as it tends to be popular amongst tourists. January is a good fit for those trying to catch dry weather, escape extremes of heat, and avoid expensive markups on hotels and flights. The high temperature in January is still in the mid 80s (or around 30 degrees Celsius).

WHAT TO WEAR IN KERALA:

It is perfectly alright to wear bikinis/bathing suits/swim trunks while at the beach. However, I would strongly recommend covering up properly if moving away from the beach and/or climbing back up to the cliff area in order to be respectful of the local culture and also avoid uncomfortable stares. Wearing cotton shirts and comfortable trousers/skirts to go into town is a good idea to cover up appropriately while also remaining cool as the temperatures can get pretty high during the day.

HOW TO GET TO VARKALA:

The nearest airport is Trivandrum(TRV) and one can easily catch a taxi to Varkala for about $20. Alternatively, one can also take the train – Kanyakumari Express – to Varkala Sivagiri Station. If you plan to fly into Kochi (COK), which is another city in the state of Kerala, the train ride south to Varkala is about 4 hours. I would recommend the train, as the ride provides gorgeous views of the lush landscape. At the time of this post, non-stop flights to TRV and COK are available from Mumbai, Delhi, and Abu Dhabi. Cheap flights to India often involve at least one stop from the United States. Non stop flights from New York and Newark are available to Delhi and Mumbai on Air India and United Airlines, which often save time, but are more expensive.

BEING SAFE IN KERALA:

Although Varkala is one of the chillest and safest towns in the area, it is always a good idea to be cautious. The town goes to sleep quite early, so use caution if walking around after dark. In fact, past sunset, there is not much to do in the evening hours. You can hang out at one of the restaurant bars on the cliff, listen to the waves crash, and watch the fishing boats return home after a long day’s work.

WHAT NOT TO MISS IN KERALA:

Travelers can opt to take a quick day trip to the nearby Ponnumthuruthu Island, also called the Golden Island. While in the Golden Island you can take a relaxing manual boat rides along the water. The Golden Island is just 12 km south of Varkala. Varkala is also famous for the Janardana Swami Temple, a two thousand year old shrine, which is often referred to as Dakshin Kashi (Benares of the South). The temple is in close proximity to Papanasam beach. While Varkala is usually visited for the beach and yoga, you may also want to experience the famous Kerala Backwaters. The three most well known regions of Kerala’s backwaters are Astamudi, Vembanad, and Kannur-Valiyaparambu Backwaters (in districts of Kannur and Kasargod). The backwaters near Astamudi lake are the closest to Varkala.